As I dipped my toes in the sand and watched yet another glorious sunset, I began to wonder why I had never been here before.

La Union isn’t that far and I had frequented destinations more remote and harder to reach than this, but this was my first time in this often overlooked province since I started travel blogging six years ago. To me, La Union was just one of the provinces to pass through en route to Ilocos or Baguio City. Such a shame really, especially upon seeing first-hand just how enjoyable a quiet moment here can be. A small crowd of surfer was cheering in the distance, but their laughter was more like a gentle score playing as the waves danced. La Union is absolutely worthy of a stop.

Understanding La Union

Cornered by the Cordillera Mountains to the West Philippine Sea, La Union is an arid strip of land that gained prominence over the past years as the Surfing Capital of Northern Luzon. Of all the surfing hotspots, it is one of the most easily accessible, only 6-7 hours on paved roads, and one of the most tourism-ready, boasting a steadily growing number of resorts and restaurants.

While surfing remains what most tourists visit La Union for, more and more sites are starting to come into view. One of the restaurant-owners we had spoken to even said that she had been living in the province all her life but never knew that there are waterfalls nearby that are worth seeing.

Best Time to Visit La Union

It depends on the purpose of your visit. La Union has unusual travel seasons. While most destinations in the Philippines come to life during summer (March-May), San Juan’s peak season runs from October to March, when the big waves make their appearance to play with the town’s growing surfing community. But remember that October and November are rainy months. If you’re surfing but don’t want uncaring weather, December-March is your safest bet.

If you’re planning on just relaxing by the beach, the summer months of April-May are ideal. The waves may not be present, but who can refuse the call of a relaxing beach getaway? Note though that summer weekends are usually packed.

Where to Stay in La Union

Two of the most popular destinations in La Union lie just next to each other. San Fernando, the capital city, and San Juan, the surfing hub. Which to pick depends on your itinerary and desired type of accommodations. San Fernando is where you’ll find Thunderbird Resorts, not for the budget-conscious.

But for a budget traveler like me, San Juan is the better option. San Juan has a wide array of inns and hostels in a much better location, by the beach and along the national highway. If you’re visiting La Union to swim or surf, stay in San Juan.

During my visit, I really wanted to stay at Flotsam and Jetsam Hostel, arguably the most well-known hostel in Urbiztondo Beach, but they were fully booked at the time. I was able to try three others:

• Urbiz Garden Bed and Breakfast.

• G Hotel. A newly opened budget hotel. Not beachfront but surrounded by the town’s best restaurants. P1700 for a double room, P1900 triple room.

• Chill’n. Typical budget resort. Neat, close to the beach but not beachfront.

For more information about my experience in the hotels above, check out: Where to Stay in La Union

How to Get to La Union

La Union can be reached after a 5-7 drive or bus ride northward from Metro Manila. If you’re coming from the Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA), which is on the southern end of the metro, add one or two hours, depending on how bad the traffic is.

Make your way to any of the following terminals. If you’re coming from the airport, the nearest is the Pasay Terminal of Partas Bus.

Partas Transportation – Cubao
816 Aurora Boulevard, Cubao, Quezon City

Partas Transportation – Pasay
Tramo corner Edang St., San Roque, Pasay City

Dominion Bus Lines
EDSA corner New York St., Quezon City

Viron Transportation Co., Inc.
1209 Dapitan corner Blumentritt Streets, Sampaloc, Manila

If you’re staying in San Fernando, board a bus going to San Fernando (P400-ish).

If you’re staying in Urbiztondo, board a bus going to Vigan or Laoag and ask the conductor to drop you off in Urbiztondo (P425).

Another way is to take the bus to San Fernando and then ride a tricycle to Urbiztondo (P100). One of our readers in Urbiztondo, Krysna Quintos, has this to add: Get off at the plaza, Happy Tummy, or Partas Terminal and then make your way to the jeepney station near the round market. Ride the jeepney to Urbinztondo (P11).

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